Acerra

Province: Naples · Region: Campania · Population: 56,465 · Postal code: 80011

Acerra claims a primacy that makes the world smile: being the homeland of Pulcinella. In the counts' castle — a medieval keep remodelled in the eighteenth century — a museum devoted to the mask gathers the commedia dell'arte tradition beside the peasant culture of the plain. The town is among Campania's historic dioceses, with Oscan origins and a Roman municipium, Acerrae, cited by ancient authors.

The Clanio plain made it hemp-and-wheat country for centuries; today Acerra lives the hinterland's transition, Naples twenty minutes away and Vesuvius in front. The Pulcinella festival each September is its calling card.