Pesto alla Genovese basil, garlic, pine nuts, pecorino and oil pounded in a mortar
Basil, garlic, pine nuts, pecorino and oil, pounded in a marble mortar: the sauce that has had a written recipe since 1863, born in Genoa.
Read more →Liguria's borders almost coincide with those of the old Republic of Genoa, and until 1860 they also took in the county of Nice, ceded to France by the treaty of Turin. Common belief has it squeezed between mountains and sea, reduced to two strips of coast east and west of Genoa; but more than a quarter of the region's surface lies beyond the ridge and drains towards the Po basin. There are 234 comuni in four provinces, and the capital alone holds more than a third of the inhabitants.
On the coast the villages have learned to grow vertically: the Cinque Terre, a UNESCO site since 1997 with their terraces dropping sheer to the water, and Portofino are the celebrities. Genoa surprises anyone expecting only a port: the Rolli palaces, the noble residences listed by UNESCO in 2006, and the waterfront redesigned by Renzo Piano. And Liguria is eaten green — pesto, focaccia and farinata were born here — with the sea always alongside.
The places worth the trip on their own, picked by our editors.
Map and list are connected: hover one to light up the other, click to enter.
Our editors' ranking: the area's most important places, drawn from the individual town guides. See the national rankings →
1 🏛️ Squares & old towns Portofino Piazzetta 📍 Portofino Its real name is piazza Martiri dell'Olivetta: painted houses, moored boats, Castello Brown above.
2 🏰 Castles & palaces Via Garibaldi e i Palazzi dei Rolli 📍 Genoa The palaces where the Republic drew lots to decide who would house kings and envoys.
3 🎈 Unique experiences Acquario di Genova 📍 Genoa Designed by Renzo Piano in 1992, Italy's largest aquarium houses thousands of animals from ecosystems across the globe. Straight-line distances from the town centre. Tap a point to open its page.
Basil, garlic, pine nuts, pecorino and oil, pounded in a marble mortar: the sauce that has had a written recipe since 1863, born in Genoa.
Read more →🏖️ Seaside 8 🏘️ Villages 3 🍷 Food & wine 1 🏛️ UNESCO heritage 1
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📅 Every year, on 4 November
Borghetto di Vara celebrates Saint Charles Borromeo on 4 November; in 1618, when the parish was founded, the patron was chosen by lighting one candle for each saint and awarding the title to whichever stayed lit the longest.
📅 Every year, on 11 November
Follo celebrates Saint Martin of Tours on 11 November, with the church dedicated to him; in the hamlet of Carnea, overlooked by Monte Santa Croce, the codfish fritter feast is instead held on the second Sunday of September.
📅 Every year, on 11 November
Bergeggi's patron is Saint Martin of Tours, on 11 November; off the village lies the island that for centuries was called after Saint Eugene.
📅 Every year, on 11 November
Framura celebrates Saint Martin on 11 November; his 12th-century church in the hamlet of Costa has a 9th-century Carolingian tower as its bell tower, testimony to the Frankish rule that followed the fall of the Lombard kingdom.