Molise

2 provinces · 136 towns · Population: 313,660

"Molise doesn't exist," jokes the Italian internet — which turns out to be the best possible advertising for Italy's youngest region, autonomous only since 1963. It exists all right: in the tratturi, the grassy motorways of seasonal shepherding up to 111 metres wide; in Agnone, where the papally-warranted Marinelli foundry has been casting church bells for centuries with unchanged techniques; in hilltop villages and the Samnite theatre of Pietrabbondante.

Thirty kilometres of coast at Termoli, near-private mountains at Campitello Matese. If you're looking for Italy before tourism, it's here.

Molise

The provinces of Molise

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