What to see · Portovenere

A stone pentagon on a rock off Palmaria, armed with ten Genoese cannon since 1606.

Liguria's oldest Roman olive mill, with two presses and a two-aisled vaulted cistern.

On the island of Tino, lit since 1840: you can only land on 13 September.

Born a Genoese lazaretto in 1724, now a navy frogmen base: it can only be looked at from outside.

Two churches sewn together on the spur: a 5th-century basilica and the banded Gothic of the Genoese.

The inlaid choir of friar Paolo da Recco, above the Le Grazie cove, atop a stairway of olive trees.