Gallipoli

Province: Lecce · Region: Puglia · Population: 20,398 · Postal code: 73014

Kalè polis, the "beautiful city": the Greeks had already understood. Old Gallipoli is a limestone island tied to the mainland by a seventeenth-century bridge, a skein of courtyards and Baroque churches ringed by bastions, its underground oil mills — dug into the tuff to press the lamp oil that lit Europe — telling of former wealth.

The Purità beach lies beneath the walls like a carpet; the fish market runs on red prawns and sea urchins. In summer the Baia Verde beaches turn up the volume; at dawn, the old town still belongs to the fishermen.