Carpi

Province: Modena · Region: Emilia-Romagna · Population: 67,268 · Postal code: 41012

Piazza dei Martiri is one of Italy's largest squares, a Renaissance rectangle the Pio family — lords of Carpi for three centuries — drew as their calling card: their castle-turned-museum on one side, the long portico still hosting trade on the other. Knitwear did the rest: Carpi's textile district has dressed the fashion labels for decades.

A few kilometres away, the Fossoli camp — from which Primo Levi too was deported — is now a place of national memory, completed by the Museum of the Deportee inside the castle. Lambrusco and tortelli keep up the Emilian end.