Genzano bread was the first in Europe to earn PGI status: dark crust, a crumb that stays alive for days, baked to a tradition the town's ovens defend like a noble title. Toasted slices with Castelli olive oil are bruschetta in its platonic form.
Around the bread, the Castelli table: porchetta, wines of the Colli Lanuvini and the fraschette taverns where lunch lasts as long as it must. In June the Infiorata perfumes the main street, and the bakery remains the town's other church.