Amaretto has carried Saronno's name to every continent, but the town's masterpiece is in a dome. The sanctuary of the Beata Vergine dei Miracoli is a building site of first-rank names: the lantern tower was designed in 1505 by Giovanni Antonio Amadeo, the man of the Certosa di Pavia, with stone a mason from Osteno quarried and sent all the way here; in the dome Gaudenzio Ferrari painted the «Concert of Angels», dozens of musicians in flight, among the most joyful pages of the Lombard Renaissance; and Bernardino Luini worked here twice, the last time in 1531, from the apse to the screen. The bell tower is forty-seven metres high.
The oldest church, though, is San Francesco, of the late thirteenth century, which tradition traces to a passage of Saint Anthony of Padua on his way to Varese: it is a national monument. The rest of the town was made by trains. Saronno is a historic junction of the Ferrovie Nord, and in the old sheds where steam locomotives were overhauled there is a railway museum, now closed for works. From here it is half an hour to the Duomo in Milan, or to Como, or to Malpensa, and the Swiss border is twenty-five kilometres away. A crossroads with far more art than it admits to.