Riva del Garda

Province: Trento · Region: Trentino-South Tyrol · Population: 15,838 · Postal code: 38066

Where Garda narrows between the mountains, Riva was for centuries the Habsburg empire's southern port: Mitteleuropean elegance survives in its palaces, and Thomas Mann and Franz Kafka came to take cures at the von Hartungen sanatorium. The Rocca stands in the water with its museum; the Bastione, reached by panoramic cable car, grants the sweeping view over lake and olive groves.

The punctual afternoon wind — the Ora — made Riva and Torbole a European capital of sailing and windsurfing; the crags around are a climbing eldorado. Sport, Habsburgs and olive trees: Trentino's Garda is another story, and it starts here.