Fiesole

Province: Florence · Region: Tuscany · Population: 13,990 · Postal code: 50014

Fiesole was Etruscan before Florence existed: from the hill, the mother has watched the daughter for twenty-five centuries. The Roman theatre, still in use for the Estate Fiesolana — among Italy's longest-running festivals, since 1947 — the baths and the archaeological museum compose a miniature acropolis among cypresses.

The convent of San Francesco, up the steep climb, grants the panorama over Florence that Grand Tour travellers held obligatory; Medici villas and gardens dot the descent. Twenty minutes by bus from the Duomo, Fiesole is the Florentines' breath of air — and their savvier guests'.