Six towers survive from the medieval village, and three of them ended up on the municipal coat of arms. The clock tower leans about sixteen degrees from its own centre of gravity and carries a sundial and a clock on each of its four faces; facing it stands the tower of the prisons, whose inner walls still keep the graffiti scratched by those shut inside. Between the two lies piazza Roma, paved as a chessboard.
On that chessboard they play the Living Draughts, with pieces of flesh and blood: a show Torquato Tasso watched in 1564, when he was a guest of the Rangoni marquises, and one that is still held. The hills around are those of Lambrusco Grasparossa and of the Trebbiano from which traditional balsamic vinegar is made; the village, for its part, keeps a museum of the Absurd and holds a fair of the absurd every second year.
Tagliatelle al Ragù · Aceto Balsamico di Modena
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Next up: Saints Senesius and Theopompus, patrons with the Grape and Lambrusco Festival, Friday 21 May
Nearest airport: Bologna Marconi, 27 km away
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📅 Every year, on 21 May; in September the Grape and Lambrusco Grasparossa Festival
Castelvetro di Modena celebrates its patrons, Saints Senesius and Theopompus, on 21 May, in the church dedicated to them. Every year in September, the Grape and Lambrusco Grasparossa Festival is held, with winemakers displaying their products in the main square.
Cooked grape must and wine vinegar aged in wooden barrels: Aceto Balsamico di Modena has held Protected Geographical Indication status since 2009.
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Outside Castelvetro di Modena, but an easy day trip away.
