Monterosso al Mare

Province: La Spezia · Region: Liguria · Population: 1,481 · Postal code: 19016

Monterosso is the largest of the Cinque Terre and the only one with a true beach: sand and umbrellas beneath the statue of the Giant, the concrete Neptune of 1910 holding up a terrace from the cliff. The old village, behind the tower, lives on alleyways, salted anchovies and lemons.

Eugenio Montale's family summered here: the hills of his "Cuttlefish Bones", with walls "topped with sharp shards of bottle glass", are these. The trails to Vernazza and the Soviore sanctuary repay every step with blue.