San Giuliano Milanese

Province: Milan · Region: Lombardy · Population: 35,971 · Postal code: 20098

At Viboldone, a hamlet of San Giuliano, stands one of the great Lombard abbeys: founded by the Humiliati in the twelfth century, it keeps a cycle of fourteenth-century frescoes of the Giotto school — the Last Judgement attributed to Giusto de' Menabuoi — worth the detour from the Via Emilia on its own. Benedictine nuns still keep hours and liturgy there.

At Zivido, the other memory: here in 1515 the battle of Marignano was fought, the "battle of the giants" between Francis I and the Swiss. Among irrigation channels, farmsteads and logistics sheds, San Giuliano is the South Milan that layers centuries without showing off.