Agnone

Province: Isernia · Region: Molise · Population: 5,240 · Postal code: 86081

In Agnone bells have been cast for nearly seven centuries: the pontifical Marinelli foundry, active — tradition holds — since 1339 and among the world's oldest family firms, has given voice to bell towers on five continents, and its museum shows the pour as a rite. The high Molise around is a plateau of woods and drove roads.

On the evening of 24 December the 'Ndocciata sets the town alight: monumental fan-shaped torches parade on shoulders, in one of Italy's most imposing fire festivals. Cave-aged caciocavallo and filled wafer sweets complete the journey into an Italy that endures.