Collesano

Province: Palermo · Region: Sicily · Population: 4,095 · Postal code: 90016

Since 1906, the cars of the Targa Florio — the oldest motor race in the world — have roared along the roads around Collesano, and the town keeps its official museum: vintage posters, memorabilia and a century of engine noise. Collesano has long been known for something quieter too, the hand-painted ceramics still made in the workshops of its old centre.

Clinging to the hills of the Madonie Park some 70 kilometres from Palermo, with the Tyrrhenian Sea on the horizon, this town of about 4,000 takes its time. Come up slowly: between the museum and the lanes, it's the colours of the local maiolica that stay with you.