What to eat here · Capaccio Paestum

Between the temples and the sea, the Paestum plain is the capital of PDO Campania buffalo mozzarella: estate dairies open their doors in the morning while the curd is still warm, and tasting among the buffaloes is a rite worth as much as the ruins.

The other flag is the PGI Paestum artichoke, the springtime "round" that fills menus from March to May. Mozzarella for breakfast, temples at noon: few Italian pairings work this well.

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