San Daniele del Friuli

Province: Udine · Region: Friuli Venezia Giulia · Population: 8,072 · Postal code: 33038

The air descending from the Alps to meet the Adriatic cures here one of the world's most celebrated hams: San Daniele DOP, sweet and guitar-shaped, is tasted right in the curing houses — many open their cellars — and in late June the Aria di Festa festival turns the town into one collective table.

The hill also guards a paper treasure: the Guarneriana library, founded in 1466 with Guarnerio d'Artegna's bequest, is among Italy's oldest public libraries, its illuminated codices dizzying. The church of Sant'Antonio, frescoed by Pellegrino, is called the "Sistine of Friuli".