What to see
While the town's street grid still follows the ancient Etruscan and Roman layout of cardo and decumanus, its visible architecture is strictly medieval and Renaissance. Originally accessed through five gates, only Porta Santa Maria (or Porta Cava) remains. It is flanked by two stone lions holding a human head between their paws, commemorating a popular revolt against the Orvieto-based Monaldeschi family. The main square is dominated by the Church of San Donato, home to a Holy Wooden Crucifix tied to the legend of a 15th-century plague. Civic landmarks include the Alemanni Palace, which houses the Geological and Landslides Museum, the Bishop's Palace, and a 16th-century mill. The cliff's erosion has claimed much of the birthplace of Saint Bonaventure, who died in 1274, but his namesake cave—where Saint Francis is said to have healed him as a boy—survives and is actually an Etruscan chamber tomb. More Etruscan traces lie beneath the San Francesco Vecchio viewpoint, which reveals a small necropolis.
Visiting
Proposed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2021 and listed among the most beautiful villages in Italy, Civita manages its influx of tourists—which reached an estimated 850,000 in 2017—through an entry toll. Introduced in 2013, the fee (later set to €3 on weekdays and €5 on Sundays) famously allowed the Bagnoregio municipality to abolish all communal taxes. Visitors crossing the footbridge might coincide with historic local events. On Good Friday, the Holy Crucifix is placed on a coffin and carried in a centuries-old procession to nearby Bagnoregio. On the first Sunday of June and the second of September, the main square is cleared for the Palio della Tonna, a traditional donkey race between the town's districts. In summer, late July and early August bring the Tuscia in Jazz Festival, while winter features a live nativity scene staged throughout the medieval alleys.
Our editors' tip
Seek out the "Bucaione", a deep tunnel carved directly into the lower part of the volcanic rock. It allows you to walk straight from the town into the badlands valley, providing a close look at the clay and tuff layers that threaten the settlement. It is easy to see how this dramatic, floating topography inspired Hayao Miyazaki's animated film "Castle in the Sky".