Houses step into the water and boats park beneath the windows: Chianalea is Scilla's fishermen's quarter, a thread of lanes between the Ruffo castle rock and the Strait, where little stilt restaurants serve swordfish metres from where it landed. The "little Venice of the South" has stayed real: nets drying, cats, voices passing house to house.
At sunset, Sicily lighting up across the Strait, the village gives its best.
Our tip: book a table over the water for dinner on a stilt terrace, then walk after dark, when lamps mirror in the sea: that is when Chianalea enters your memory. In summer, mind the wet walkways.