The cheese carrying this name worldwide — Italy's second most-produced PDO — was born here, tradition holds, in the ninth century from a lucky ageing mistake. The blue-green penicillium veins tell two souls: the dolce, creamy and spoonable, and the piccante, made for meditation.
Production has migrated to the Novara area, but September's National Gorgonzola Festival brings the prodigal son home each year: risottos, gnocchi and pairings with honey and mostarda for two days of cheese worship.