What to see · Gattinara

The grand chancellor of Charles V asked to be buried underfoot, out of humility

Gerolamo Giovenone's triptych of the early 1530s, above the niche of the Virgin

Beneath the baroque, frescoes of 1460 survive: processions of notables and common folk

At 540 metres, the ruins of the castle Vercelli raised in 1187 over the mouths of the Valsesia

Gattinara's symbol: an eleventh-century tower between two walled enclosures, now among vineyards

Twenty oak barrels of a hundred hectolitres, then a storm and a passage to Argentina