Born in 1659 as Charles Emmanuel II's hunting residence to Amedeo di Castellamonte's design, enlarged by Juvarra, looted by Napoleon and reduced to barracks for two centuries: the Reggia di Venaria rose again through one of Europe's largest restoration projects and returned in 2007 to what it was — the Savoy Versailles at Turin's gates, UNESCO-listed with Piedmont's other royal residences.
What to see
The Great Gallery, Juvarra's masterpiece of light: eighty metres of white stuccowork where the sun draws geometries that shift with the hours — among Italy's most photographed interiors. Then the chapel of Saint Hubert, the Juvarra stables with the Savoy Bucintoro barge, and the Gardens recreated from nothing: royal potager, roses and contemporary installations against the Alps.
Visiting
Palace and gardens ask a relaxed day or an intense half; tickets come single or combined, and the temporary exhibitions — often first-rate — justify a look at the calendar. Closed Mondays, like nearly every royal house.
Getting there
Ten kilometres from Turin: the Torino-Ceres railway line to Venaria, or dedicated city buses; by car, parking rings the old town. Venaria's historic centre, also Castellamonte's design, is the visit's scenographic antechamber.
Our editors' tip
Go late afternoon in the long months: the Great Gallery in raking light is another work altogether, and the gardens empty toward sunset. Then stay for dinner in the borgo: the palace-village pairing is designed to end at the table.