Mario Botta's steel-and-glass dome, set over a circular plaza carved between palaces, is already a statement: the MART in Rovereto is Italy's great museum of modern and contemporary art, holding the foremost Futurist collection — Depero, Balla, Carrà — beside metaphysical painting, Arte Povera and international temporary shows.
In town, the Depero Futurist House of Art, the only museum founded by a Futurist, completes the route.
Our tip: the ticket often includes Casa Depero: do both, in that order, and close with a coffee beneath the dome as the zenithal light falls oblique. The big autumn exhibitions alone justify the trip.