Orta San Giulio

Province: Novara · Region: Piedmont · Population: 1,163 · Postal code: 28016

Nietzsche came here in 1882 with Lou Salomé, and the mount above the village — the Sacro Monte of Orta, UNESCO-listed since 2003 with its twenty frescoed chapels devoted to Saint Francis — became the backdrop of one of philosophy's most retold walks. Orta San Giulio is Lake Orta's drawing room: Piazza Motta open to the water, carless lanes, wisteria.

Opposite, the island of San Giulio guards a Romanesque basilica and a cloistered monastery: the "path of silence" circling it dispenses maxims on quiet. Five minutes by boat, and time changes its measure.