Rivoli

Province: Turin · Region: Piedmont · Population: 48,632 · Postal code: 10098

Juvarra dreamed a colossal palace for the Savoys and a fragment remains: Rivoli castle, unfinished and mighty, has been since 1984 the first contemporary art museum founded in Italy — Baroque halls conversing with Cattelan, Penone and Arte Povera, the "long sleeve" wing stretching the collection along a 140-metre gallery.

Contrast is its genius: frescoed ceilings above, installations below. At the castle's feet, the pedestrian old town lives on cafés and shops; Turin is thirty minutes by light rail, and the morainic hills open trails toward the Sacra di San Michele.