Five little brick domes on a perfect cube, clinging to the wall of Mount Consolino: the Cattolica (tenth century) is Italy's Byzantine jewel, a reliquary church built by Greek monks when Calabria spoke and prayed in Greek. Inside, ancient columns set upside down — to "humble" paganism — and layers of re-emerged frescoes.
From the meadow before it, the gaze falls over Stilo and the Stilaro valley to the sea.
Our tip: walk up from the village (a true fifteen minutes) early morning or toward evening: the brick ignites in raking sun. Bring coins for the custodian if present, and patience: time here keeps another unit of measure.
