The promontory dividing Lake Como into its two branches grants Bellagio the most celebrated position of the Italian lakes: from Punta Spartivento the water fans out toward the Grigne peaks, and the village descends to the lakefront by cobbled stairways — the Serbelloni above all — among silk shops and period cafés. The romantic gardens of Villa Melzi, stepping down to the water, are open March to October.
The ferry to Varenna and Menaggio turns a stay into a triangle of outings.
Our tip: sleep at least one night: when the day-trippers' last boat departs, Bellagio drops the performance and lights its true magic. An aperitivo at Punta Spartivento is the right place to understand it.