Within the Swabian walls, on a promontory that is almost an island, Termoli's old town is a tangle of yellow-pink lanes descending to the Romanesque cathedral of San Basso, among the Adriatic's finest. The Swabian castle has stood guard since 1247; below, the trabucco stretches its arms into the water.
Seek out "A Rejecélle": the alley Termolesi claim as Italy's narrowest — 41 centimetres wide, walked sideways, smile included.
Our tip: the walls circuit at sunset, when the town lights up over the water, then a brodetto alla termolese dinner in an old-town trattoria: the perfect synthesis of the Molise that very much exists.