From the Vomero hill, the fourteenth-century charterhouse watches all of Naples: the great cloister, marble and silent, the church that is a manifesto of Neapolitan Baroque signed by Fanzago, and the museum housing the Cuciniello Nativity (1879), the most celebrated crib in the world, its miniature markets lit like a theatre.
The terraced gardens, among vines and citrus, grant the view that alone repays the ticket: gulf, Vesuvius and the teeming city below.
Our tip: take the funicular from Montesanto to Morghen and walk five minutes; pair Castel Sant'Elmo next door for the 360-degree panorama. The Nativity asks for time: details reveal themselves to those who linger.
