"Iddu" — him — as the islanders call it: Stromboli has erupted with regularity for at least two thousand years, a natural lighthouse sailors have always used. The Sciara del Fuoco is the black chute where lapilli roll into the sea: at dusk, from the boats, the show of explosions igniting in the dark is among the Mediterranean's absolute experiences.
Summit climbs are guide-only and within the limits set after recent crises; the free belvedere at 290 metres already delivers emotion.
Our tip: the evening boat tour beneath the Sciara is the safest, most scenic way; if you sleep on the island, Ginostra — the village without roads — is the volcano's other face, quiet and out of time.