A tenth-century abbey at the end of a cove reached only on foot or by sea: San Fruttuoso is the best-kept secret of the Portofino headland, with the cloisters of the Doria — whose family tombs lie here — the sixteenth-century tower and a pebble beach where the water is glass. Italy's heritage trust FAI has kept it since 1983.
Offshore, 17 metres down, the Christ of the Abyss has blessed divers and sailors since 1954: on clear days you can see it with a viewing bucket.
Our tip: boat from Camogli out, trail to Portofino back (a real two hours, proper shoes): the perfect combination. Off season, the cove turns monastic again.