In 409 BC Carthage erased Sicily's westernmost Greek city in nine days; no one ever rebuilt it, and that is its gift: Selinunte is today Europe's largest archaeological park, two hundred and seventy hectares of temples, walls and dunes where you walk among colossal ruins unbroken by fencing, an African sea for a backdrop.
What to see
Temple E, re-erected in the 1950s, the site's very image; the eastern hill with the ruins of Temple G, among the largest of the Greek world — its fallen column drums are the size of rooms. Then the acropolis on the cliffs, with temples A and C and the grid-planned streets, and at the far end the Malophoros sanctuary along the river. Each zone is a walk of its own.
Visiting
The distances are real: kilometres separate acropolis and eastern hill, covered by electric shuttles included or not in the ticket depending on season. Half a day is the minimum; hat and water obligatory, shade a rare luxury. Completists add the Cave di Cusa quarries, where unfinished column drums still lie in their beds.
Getting there
The main entrance is at Marinella di Selinunte, a hamlet of Castelvetrano: by car from the A29, Castelvetrano exit, then fifteen minutes. Public connections are thin — the car is the realistic choice.
Our editors' tip
Save the acropolis for the last ninety minutes: the sun sinking behind the columns of Temple C, sea catching fire below the walls, is one of the Mediterranean's supreme archaeological sunsets. Afterwards, fish at Marinella closes the day properly.