The queen, the pizza and a letter historians distrust
The legend is set in June 1889: Naples pizzaiolo Raffaele Esposito bakes a tomato, mozzarella and basil pizza in the colours of the Italian flag for Queen Margherita, who sends a thank-you letter, and the Margherita is born. Historians pick the tale apart: as early as 1858 Francesco De Bourcard described Neapolitan pizzas topped with tomato, mozzarella and basil, and Harvard historian Zachary Nowak found the famous royal letter full of oddities, from the seal to the missing letterhead to the handwriting. In Naples the Margherita remains the pizza above all others; its birth certificate is another matter.
