🔔 The Italian Almanac

September 27

Stories and curiosities for September 27, from the Italy of a thousand bell towers.

Vanished Italy 📅 1963

Craco, the ghost town with a film career

A landslide in 1963 set off the slow abandonment of Craco, a hilltop village of nearly two thousand people perched above the clay gullies of Basilicata, in Italy's deep south. By the early 1980s it stood empty. Then the film industry discovered its silent streets: Mel Gibson shot scenes of The Passion of the Christ here, and James Bond came through in Quantum of Solace. Today the old town can only be entered along a guided route made safe for visitors, while the empty houses keep working as one of cinema's favourite Italian sets.

📍 Discover Craco

Today's tidbits

It started here 1946

The first US saint came from a small Lombard town

Francesca Cabrini was born in 1850 in Sant'Angelo Lodigiano, in the Lombard plain south of Milan. She crossed the Atlantic to serve Italian emigrants and built an astonishing network: eighty institutions across seven countries, from schools and orphanages to hospitals in New York and Chicago. Having become a US citizen, she was canonized by Pius XII in 1946, the first American citizen ever declared a saint. In 1950 the same pope named her heavenly patroness of all emigrants: the protector of those who leave had once left too.

📍 Sant'Angelo Lodigiano →
Bell-tower rivalries

Brodetto: one fish stew, eight rival ports

Brodetto is the fish stew of Italy's Adriatic coast, and it changes recipe in every harbour: Chioggia, Ancona, Porto Recanati, Vasto, Ortona and Termoli each cook their own codified version. In Fano, in the Marche, the base calls for tomato paste and vinegar, Romagna-style; down the coast in San Benedetto del Tronto the tomato disappears, green at most, and peppers go into the pot instead. Same sea, same fishermen's dish, irreconcilable doctrines: asking which brodetto is the real one is still the fastest way to start an argument on the dock.

📍 Fano →

🎉 Celebrations today in… 5

5 towns with a guide celebrate their patron saint on September 27