🔔 The Italian Almanac

September 19

Stories and curiosities for September 19, from the Italy of a thousand bell towers.

Impossible geography

One square, two countries: the border runs across the pavement

On the square outside the Transalpina railway station, the border between Italy and Slovenia runs straight across the ground: a line of stone slabs with a circular mosaic at its centre, Gorizia on one side, Nova Gorica on the other. The 1947 Paris Treaty cut this corner of Italy's far north-east in two, and for decades a wall stood here. The fence came down in 2004, and since Slovenia joined the Schengen area in late 2007 you can stroll from one country into the other mid-sentence. Slovenians call it Trg Evrope, Europe Square, and the two towns renovated it together for GO! 2025, their shared European Capital of Culture. Straddling the line for a photo has become the local sport.

📍 Discover Gorizia

Today's tidbits

Place names

The Italian village whose name means rooster-strangler

In the hills of southern Lazio, south-east of Rome, sits Strangolagalli, a village of some 2,200 people whose name literally reads as rooster-strangler. Scholars offer three explanations and no certainty: the Byzantine Greek strongylos, circular, joined to a Lombard word for palisade, describing a round settlement; a fourteenth-century nickname for a lord who strangled roosters; even the villa of a Roman patrician named Astragalus Gallus, as a seventeenth-century scholar proposed. The municipal coat of arms does not help the defence: it shows a rampant fox clutching a rooster in its paws.

📍 Strangolagalli →
Bell-tower rivalries

Piadina wars: thick in Forlì, paper-thin in Rimini

In Romagna, the flatbread country of north-eastern Italy, thickness is identity. Around Forlì and Ravenna the piadina is six to eight millimetres thick and generously wide; in Rimini it drops to two or three millimetres, thin and flexible, made to be folded over its filling. The rivalry runs so deep that Europe had to acknowledge it: the Piadina Romagnola PGI, registered in 2014, explicitly recognises a separate Riminese variant. The protected area covers the provinces of Rimini, Forlì-Cesena and Ravenna, plus the Bologna area east of the Sillaro river. On fillings the rules stay silent: there, everyone is free to be wrong by the other town's standards.

📍 Forlì →

🎉 Celebrations today in… 13

13 towns with a guide celebrate their patron saint on September 19