🔔 The Italian Almanac

September 21

Stories and curiosities for September 21, from the Italy of a thousand bell towers.

It started here 📅 1817

From Rapallo to San Francisco, one chocolate empire

Domenico Ghirardelli was born in Rapallo, on the Ligurian coast of Italy, in 1817, the son of a spice merchant. He left for Uruguay at twenty, then ran a confectionery in Lima, Peru. The Gold Rush drew him to California in 1849: he spent a few months prospecting before realizing that selling chocolate to the miners paid better than digging. In 1852 he founded his company in San Francisco, and the old factory now lives on as Ghirardelli Square, that Ligurian surname spelled out in giant letters over the bay.

📍 Discover Rapallo

Today's tidbits

Saying of the day

In September, night contends with day

An old Italian proverb has September's nights contending with the days, each stealing minutes from the other as the equinox draws near. In Aiello del Friuli, a village in Italy's north-eastern corner, the contest can be read straight off the walls: the town has become known as the village of sundials, its façades painted with solar dials, and since 2001 a festival on the last Sunday of May unveils each year's new ones. Here the shortening of the days is no figure of speech: it is a matter of shadows.

📍 Aiello del Friuli →
Impossible geography

The piece of Milan that does not touch Milan

On paper San Colombano al Lambro belongs to the Metropolitan City of Milan; on the ground, you have to cross other provinces to get there. It is the metropolitan territory's only exclave, bordering solely on towns in the provinces of Lodi and Pavia. And its hill, an isolated rise reaching 147 metres above the flat Po plain, gives the Lombard capital an unlikely distinction: the San Colombano wine grown here holds the only DOC appellation in the whole province of Milan.

📍 San Colombano al Lambro →